Home again, home again, jiggidy jig. We left Auckland this morning, March 9, at 9 AM and arrived at San Francisco this morning, March 9, at 11 AM, via a six hour layover in Sydney, Austrailia. I wish the flight to NZ only took 2 hours on the clock. Unfortunately they wouldn't let us out of the airport, but it was a rainy day anyway. We did see the Sydney Harbor bridge and the Opera House from the plane! I took about 500 photos on the trip which I will gradually start posting this week at the Picassa site. I also noticed some of the photos from the blog have disappeared, and will add them, and others, back to the blog. I also noticed that due to my long windedness the older posts on the blog have rolled over to a "Older Posts" page. I hope you all enjoyed reading about our trip to New Zealand as much as we enjoyed being there. Sorry if I rambled on at times, but words really can't explain what a beautiful country it is. Next time we visit NZ, and there will be a next time, we'll spend more time there.
Here's the link to the photos. I am gradually adding more, so check back periodically.
http://picasaweb.google.com/nzmaples/NewZealand?feat=directlink
Sue and Ken
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Monday, March 9, 2009
Sunday, March 8, Auckland
We woke Sunday morning to another beautiful, warm day. Actually it got quite hot today, felt like 80 in the sun, 60 in the shade, which is typical around here because the sun is really strong (broken ozone layer).
After breakfast in the kitchen of the B&B with the other guests (a very gay male couple, an older couple from England, a middle age - our age - couple from Florida, and a young Japanese couple who were getting married this afternoon), we packed up, checked out, and left our bags in her front hallway, and headed out.
We took a walk to the North Head area which is an old cinder cone from a 600 year old (not that old) dormant volcano located farther out in Auckland Harbor. We walked to the top of the cinder cone and could see for miles around Auckland and the surrounding islands. The harbor is huge, really a bay on par with San Franciso Bay, and has hundreds of boats of all kinds and islands of all sizes.
After our walk, we made our way to the ferry terminal and caught a ferry to Rangitoto Island, the 600 year old dormant volcano. It was fun getting out on the water and those ferries really move! After all, they have a schedule to keep and do it quite well. The only thing on Rangitoto Island is lava, young trees and bushes, people and a tractor that pulls a tourist "train" round the island, and most importantly to the top of the island so we didn't have to walk up. At the top we could look down into the crater, and also got a 360 degree beautiful view of all of Auckland and the islands.
By 5:00 we were back in Devonport, retrieved our luggage from the B&B (Stanley let us in the back door) and caught another ferry across the harbor to Auckland's main ferry terminal, where we knew we could catch the airport bus. While waiting for the bus a couple we had met back in Queenstown walked up to us! Small world! They had been sitting at a cafe and saw us get off the ferry. Keep in mind this meeting was several hundred miles from where we had first met.
This night we stayed at a hotel by the airport so we could easily catch our early flight out in the morning. The flight went from Auckland to Sydney, Austrailia, then to San Francisco.
Until we meet again, New Zealand...
After breakfast in the kitchen of the B&B with the other guests (a very gay male couple, an older couple from England, a middle age - our age - couple from Florida, and a young Japanese couple who were getting married this afternoon), we packed up, checked out, and left our bags in her front hallway, and headed out.
We took a walk to the North Head area which is an old cinder cone from a 600 year old (not that old) dormant volcano located farther out in Auckland Harbor. We walked to the top of the cinder cone and could see for miles around Auckland and the surrounding islands. The harbor is huge, really a bay on par with San Franciso Bay, and has hundreds of boats of all kinds and islands of all sizes.
After our walk, we made our way to the ferry terminal and caught a ferry to Rangitoto Island, the 600 year old dormant volcano. It was fun getting out on the water and those ferries really move! After all, they have a schedule to keep and do it quite well. The only thing on Rangitoto Island is lava, young trees and bushes, people and a tractor that pulls a tourist "train" round the island, and most importantly to the top of the island so we didn't have to walk up. At the top we could look down into the crater, and also got a 360 degree beautiful view of all of Auckland and the islands.
By 5:00 we were back in Devonport, retrieved our luggage from the B&B (Stanley let us in the back door) and caught another ferry across the harbor to Auckland's main ferry terminal, where we knew we could catch the airport bus. While waiting for the bus a couple we had met back in Queenstown walked up to us! Small world! They had been sitting at a cafe and saw us get off the ferry. Keep in mind this meeting was several hundred miles from where we had first met.
This night we stayed at a hotel by the airport so we could easily catch our early flight out in the morning. The flight went from Auckland to Sydney, Austrailia, then to San Francisco.
Until we meet again, New Zealand...
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Saturday, March 7 - Queenstown to Auckland
We woke to a beautiful mostly sunny day, had a leisurely morning, checked out of the hotel in Queenstown and made our way to the airport for our flight to Auckland. It was sad to say good-bye to Queenstown, but I know we’ll be back. After all, I didn’t get my chance to bungee jump!
We arrived in Auckland about 2:30 pm and caught a taxi to the bed & breakfast in which we are staying in Devonport. Devonport is across the water from down town Auckland, much like Sausalito is from San Francisco, and is very much like Sausalito. There is a ferry that connects Devonport to Auckland and all the islands around here. Tomorrow we’ll get out on the water one way or another (if the weather holds).
We didn’t arrive in Devonport until about 4:00 today, so we only had time to walk around town. They have a very nice water front with a park and sea wall, even a small swimming beach. The weather was great, mostly sunny and warm, about 75 degrees and humid.
We had dinner at a great Italian place, Buena Sera, run by a real Italian guy who makes all the pasta, sauces and everything himself. Ken and I agreed it was the best Italian dinner we’ve ever had. I had tortellini with a 4 cheese sauce and Ken had eggplant parmesan.
We have never stayed in a bed & breakfast before, so this is a new experience for us. This is a really cute Victorian house built in 1880 and overlooks the park along the water front. When we arrived we were greeted by Stanley, the very friendly yellow lab. Stanley appears to have greeted every guest for the last many years. Judy, our hostess, is from England and has kept up the entire front and back yard with beautiful gardens in which she takes great pride. Every square inch, including the front and back porches, has luscious greenery and flowers, and not a single weed. Our room is the one on the second floor front with the window open.
We arrived in Auckland about 2:30 pm and caught a taxi to the bed & breakfast in which we are staying in Devonport. Devonport is across the water from down town Auckland, much like Sausalito is from San Francisco, and is very much like Sausalito. There is a ferry that connects Devonport to Auckland and all the islands around here. Tomorrow we’ll get out on the water one way or another (if the weather holds).
We didn’t arrive in Devonport until about 4:00 today, so we only had time to walk around town. They have a very nice water front with a park and sea wall, even a small swimming beach. The weather was great, mostly sunny and warm, about 75 degrees and humid.
We had dinner at a great Italian place, Buena Sera, run by a real Italian guy who makes all the pasta, sauces and everything himself. Ken and I agreed it was the best Italian dinner we’ve ever had. I had tortellini with a 4 cheese sauce and Ken had eggplant parmesan.
We have never stayed in a bed & breakfast before, so this is a new experience for us. This is a really cute Victorian house built in 1880 and overlooks the park along the water front. When we arrived we were greeted by Stanley, the very friendly yellow lab. Stanley appears to have greeted every guest for the last many years. Judy, our hostess, is from England and has kept up the entire front and back yard with beautiful gardens in which she takes great pride. Every square inch, including the front and back porches, has luscious greenery and flowers, and not a single weed. Our room is the one on the second floor front with the window open.
Friday, March 6, 2009
March 5&6, 2009, Doubtful Sound
Bright and early Thursday morning, we hopped on a bus and headed for the Fiordland of New Zealand. About 12:30 we arrived in Manapour.
What a view! At the top of the pass we looked down at the entrance to the sound. It is actually a fiord by definition (carved out by glaciers), as are all the “sounds” in this south western region of NZ. We boarded the boat about 2:00 PM and spent the next 20 hours on Doubtful Sound. Everyone has their most beautiful place on earth, but this beats all of them.
The day was rarely perfect weather for seeing the sound. Mostly sunny, about 70 degrees, not too windy. We headed out from the eastern most part of the sound (Deep Cove) toward the mouth of the sound at the Tasman Sea. It took about 3 hours to reach the sea. Along the way we saw water falls at least 2,000 feet high, mountains descending straight into the water covered by the native beech trees, moss and other tree and shrub vegetation I don’t remember the name of. The mountain sides are all rock, no dirt for the roots to dig into. The trees cling to the mountain side by spreading their roots into the moss that grows on the rock. You know this moss which is the stuff a florist puts in a potted plant or flowering plant you buy. That dried moss came from these sounds of New Zealand. So… the roots of these 20-30 foot tall trees clinging to a very steep mountain side are only an inch deep, but spread very wide. Periodically they have “tree slides” which are like an avalanche but instead of snow, it’s with trees. There are many scars on the hillsides running hundreds of feet from top to bottom and only several feet wide, from these tree slides.
There we boarded a water taxi boat that held about 35 people and spent about an hour crossing Lake Manapour.
At the other end we boarded another bus for a 30 minute ride which took us over a gravel road over Wilson Pass and down to Doubtful Sound.
What a view! At the top of the pass we looked down at the entrance to the sound. It is actually a fiord by definition (carved out by glaciers), as are all the “sounds” in this south western region of NZ. We boarded the boat about 2:00 PM and spent the next 20 hours on Doubtful Sound. Everyone has their most beautiful place on earth, but this beats all of them.The day was rarely perfect weather for seeing the sound. Mostly sunny, about 70 degrees, not too windy. We headed out from the eastern most part of the sound (Deep Cove) toward the mouth of the sound at the Tasman Sea. It took about 3 hours to reach the sea. Along the way we saw water falls at least 2,000 feet high, mountains descending straight into the water covered by the native beech trees, moss and other tree and shrub vegetation I don’t remember the name of. The mountain sides are all rock, no dirt for the roots to dig into. The trees cling to the mountain side by spreading their roots into the moss that grows on the rock. You know this moss which is the stuff a florist puts in a potted plant or flowering plant you buy. That dried moss came from these sounds of New Zealand. So… the roots of these 20-30 foot tall trees clinging to a very steep mountain side are only an inch deep, but spread very wide. Periodically they have “tree slides” which are like an avalanche but instead of snow, it’s with trees. There are many scars on the hillsides running hundreds of feet from top to bottom and only several feet wide, from these tree slides.
About half way to the sea, we came across a pod of bottle-nose dolphins. There were about 10 of them. At first they were a ways out from the boat, but as we headed toward them, they saw us and came to the boat. They were jumping out of the water and swimming next to the boat in the surf at the front of the boat, jumping and playing. It was amazing to see them having such fun with us. They stayed with us for about 15 minutes.
At the opening of the sound to the Tasman Sea there were several small islands, which makes sense since the sound was glacier formed and the glacier left all these little islands at the end from all the silt and rock it pushed out as it moved. On these small rock islands we spotted hundreds of fur seals basking in the rare sun. After watching them for a while the captain of the boat turned us toward another small rock island where we spotted a rare crested penguin. This time of year they are stuck on land while they molt and replace all their feathers. It is a rare penguin, so were were really lucky to see him.
While in the sound we had a chance to kayak or go out in the boat’s tenders and snoop around closer to the shore. That was fine, except for the dreaded Sand Fly! They are worse then mosquitoes, although thankfully, the bites don’t itch as much. There is folklore that says that some goddess brought them in as a curse to keep people out of this beautiful area. It worked, because there is no one here, except us tourists. But it is beautiful!
About 6 pm we headed back into the sound and to a sheltered cove to anchor for the night. It was very calm, and after dark we couldn’t even tell we were on the water. We woke about 6:30 the next morning to the sound of our boat’s motors. It wasn’t daylight yet, but we got up and had breakfast. By about 7:30 daylight was starting to show through the pouring rain and fog which had settled on the fiord. The lighter it got, the more beautiful it got. I thought the day before was amazing with the sun, but this fog and mist created such a mysterious look with the steep rock walls coming straight into the calm water, with every hill side behind it slightly foggier. The rain brought out hundreds of waterfalls cascading down the mountain sides from thousands of feet straight up. This day was such an amazing contrast to the day before.
We returned to the dock by 10 am, boarded the bus that took us back over Wilson Pass to Lake Manapour, boarded the water taxi for another hour ride across the lake to our bus back to Queenstown. It rained heavy all the way back.
We checked into our hotel, then headed out to dinner at the restaurant the bus driver recommended – Botswana Butchery. It was in a cute cottage like house on the lake front, but the inside had been remodeled to be rather modern – lots of black and white. We arrived at about 6:30 pm in our jeans and wet rain coats. No we did not have a reservation but our bus drive recommended the place so they accepted us. We followed the receptionist to the second floor where she sat us in a small room, single table, two comfy, overstuffed wing chairs, all to ourselves with a fire place and a window view of the lake. This little room even had a door that they closed each time the waitress came and went. How we lucked out on this, we’re not sure, but we suspect that since we were dressed in our soggy jeans, they were trying to hide us. We had an excellent dinner (lamb and steak).
Now we’re back in our room and we’ll head out tomorrow morning for Auckland, and very sad that our trip is coming to an end. We could spend a month in Queenstown and not do everything! 
Sunset in Queenstown on our last night there.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Wednesday, March 4, Day two in Queenstown
The bungee jumping bridge.I can’t believe how fast the time is flying by. Our trip is more than half over. Today was another beautiful day, not a cloud in the sky and about 75 degrees (same as yesterday). In the sun it is very hot, but in the shade it is cool. We have been told the NZ sun is very intense and I believe it.
Today we took a 45 minute drive north along Lake Wakatipa from Queenstown to Glenorchy at the source of the lake, which is the Dart River. This is the area where much of the Lord of the Rings movies were filmed. It is beautiful! You can very easily imagine you are in the Middle Earth, where the story took place. Along the lake the only sign of civilization is the road cut out along the hillside as it follows the lake. No boats on the lake and no buildings along the lake. Glenorchy and Queenstown are the only towns on this huge lake. Beyond the head of the lake is a fantastic view of Mount Earnslaw. It is beautiful snow capped peak, and in the foreground are lush green fields and the lake. (see photo.) The wind was whipping up on the lake today causing waves to roll and break onto the rocky beach. I’ve read that the lake is so long and big that due to “atmospheric conditions” the lake rises and falls 5 inches every day.
After having lunch at one of the 5 cafés in Glenorchy (the other 3 buildings in town were the Dart River Jet Boat activity house, a gas station, and a gift shop) we headed back toward Queenstown.
Sign on the cliff side dirt road to Chard Farm Winery.
You can see the dirt road cut out on the hill side in the center of the photo.On the other side of Queenstown is a valley equivalent to our Napa Valley, but smaller. It’s about 15 miles long but only ½ mile wide, but on each side are wineries and vineyards. We finally did what we came to NZ to do – go wine tasting. We went to 3 wineries: Chard Farm, Peregrine Winery, and Gibston Valley Winery. We bought a bottle at the first two, but not at Gibston. Gibston had a cheese house where we did buy some sheep cheese. It is very good, much like parmesan. We’re now back at our room sitting on the balcony with a glass of wine and cheese, spoiling our dinner. We also have found out that to ship wine back to the US costs about $120 for every six bottles, so we’re not sure what were going to do about that.
Tomorrow we head out on an overnight boat on Doubtful Sound. The weather is supposed to stay nice until Friday (then rain), so we’re expecting to see some more amazing sights out on the water.
Tomorrow we head out on an overnight boat on Doubtful Sound. The weather is supposed to stay nice until Friday (then rain), so we’re expecting to see some more amazing sights out on the water.
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Tuesday, March 3, Queenstown
Today we had to decide what exciting adventure we would do in Queenstown – After all Queenstown is known as the adventure capital of the world. We could bungee jump, jet boat, sky dive, para-sail, kayak, 4x4, Luge, among just a few adventures.
We chose to start the day with jet boating on the Shotover River. We took their bus to their dock at the river, donned our “splash coats” and life jackets. It was a beautiful 75 degree day, so the thought of needing a splash jacket seemed silly, but we learned otherwise. The boat held about 16 of us and away we went. The water was usually no more that a couple inches deep, but these are jet boats which have no propeller, and can run in very shallow water. They took us through a beautiful gorge which steep rock walls. Of course the driver’s job was to make this as adrenalin filled as possible, so at about 60 miles per hour we zipped past vertical rock walls at only mere inches away. Then, with little warning the driver put the boat into a full 360 degree spin. The whole trip was quite exciting. We bought the video of our boat trip and intend to post it on YouTube. When we get it posted, we’ll let you know the address.
(Might be a while since when we got home we discovered they gave us the wrong video)
Back in town, we took a gondola ride to the top of a local mountain. Up there we opted to do the luge ride. It really wasn’t much, but it was fun. Kind of like a go-kart but on a slope. From up there we watched several parasailers. Looked fun, but too $$$.
Back at the bottom of the gondola, we decided to do a less adrenaline rush activity and took a drive to a little town called Arrowtown. It was a very cute gold mining town. On the return drive went via the local ski hill. Actually, we had to drive up about 2000 feet just to reach the ski lodge. From there the lifts carry skiers up about another 500 feet to the summit. While that doesn’t sound like much, it was all wide open like one giant bowl, not really a ski bowl, but like an inverted bowl. Not a single tree. Most of the area was intermediate to advanced, with just a small beginner area.
Tonight had dinner at Chico’s (not the women’s dress shop). It was very good, New Zealand food. Tomorrow we’re thinking of a 4x4 tour of the Lord of the Rings area and maybe a bungee jump!
We chose to start the day with jet boating on the Shotover River. We took their bus to their dock at the river, donned our “splash coats” and life jackets. It was a beautiful 75 degree day, so the thought of needing a splash jacket seemed silly, but we learned otherwise. The boat held about 16 of us and away we went. The water was usually no more that a couple inches deep, but these are jet boats which have no propeller, and can run in very shallow water. They took us through a beautiful gorge which steep rock walls. Of course the driver’s job was to make this as adrenalin filled as possible, so at about 60 miles per hour we zipped past vertical rock walls at only mere inches away. Then, with little warning the driver put the boat into a full 360 degree spin. The whole trip was quite exciting. We bought the video of our boat trip and intend to post it on YouTube. When we get it posted, we’ll let you know the address.
(Might be a while since when we got home we discovered they gave us the wrong video)
Back in town, we took a gondola ride to the top of a local mountain. Up there we opted to do the luge ride. It really wasn’t much, but it was fun. Kind of like a go-kart but on a slope. From up there we watched several parasailers. Looked fun, but too $$$.
Back at the bottom of the gondola, we decided to do a less adrenaline rush activity and took a drive to a little town called Arrowtown. It was a very cute gold mining town. On the return drive went via the local ski hill. Actually, we had to drive up about 2000 feet just to reach the ski lodge. From there the lifts carry skiers up about another 500 feet to the summit. While that doesn’t sound like much, it was all wide open like one giant bowl, not really a ski bowl, but like an inverted bowl. Not a single tree. Most of the area was intermediate to advanced, with just a small beginner area.
Tonight had dinner at Chico’s (not the women’s dress shop). It was very good, New Zealand food. Tomorrow we’re thinking of a 4x4 tour of the Lord of the Rings area and maybe a bungee jump!
Monday, March 2 Omarau to Queenstown
This morning we woke to a beautiful, partly cloudy day. We headed south along the coast, stopping to see the Moeraki Boulders. These are a very strange and unique group of about 30 perfectly round boulders on the beach, ranging in size from 2 feet to about 5 feet in diameter.
Legend has it that these are gifts from the gods, but in reality they are a geology formation from inside the bluffs above this ocean shoreline, that fell into the ocean.
From here we started driving west toward Queenstown. We arrived in Q-town by mid afternoon. Ken says it’s about the size of Reno, but I say it’s much smaller, more like South Shore of Lake Tahoe, but a couple square blocks condensed together. The residential area spreads out and up the hillsides away from the lake. The town is right on the shore of Lake Wakatipu, a beautiful mountain lake, again much like Lake Tahoe. Our hotel is about a mile north of town along the lake shore.
After checking in to the hotel, we relaxed on our balcony with a glass of wine and gouda cheese (a local specialty) and enjoyed views of the lake and surrounding mountains. We took the bus into town and had dinner along the wharf.
Sunday, March 1 Wanaka to Omarau
This morning Wanaka was very rainy. We hit the internet café then took a drive to Treble Cone ski area which is in the mountains above Wanaka. Along the way saw several cows that were wandering along the roadside – no fence between them and the road, and they left plenty of evidence they had been on the road! The road up to Treble Cone was gravel for most of the way from below snow level up to the ski area, so we’re not sure how easily traveled it is in the winter. The road was closed shortly after it became gravel so we don’t know what it was like around the next corner.
From Wanaka we drove about 3 hours eastward to Omarau, on the east coast, where the Little Blue Penguin Colony is located. The drive took us through very barren mountains, which leveled out as we neared the coast. Omarau is nothing and only known for the penguins. We had dinner at a pub called Fat Sally’s. Great food, and we saw Fat Sally – aptly named. Then just at dusk we went to see the Little Blue Penguins. They are sort of nocturnal. They spend all day from an hour before dawn, out at sea fishing. Then just after dusk they return to their colony on land. The viewing place is a small grand stand and they light the area with a light spectrum the penguins can’t see so they are not afraid to come ashore. Just at dark they start coming ashore in groups of about 5-10 penguins. They climb/waddle up a rocky steep shore up to their grassy colony area. They are really cute – about 15-20 inches tall, and look just like any penguin you would imagine, except their backs are blue. When they get to their grassy colony, they start calling each other with a very strange sound that I can’t really explain, except it sounded like a high pitched snoring. We were not allowed to photograph so nothing but post cards of these little cuties.
From Wanaka we drove about 3 hours eastward to Omarau, on the east coast, where the Little Blue Penguin Colony is located. The drive took us through very barren mountains, which leveled out as we neared the coast. Omarau is nothing and only known for the penguins. We had dinner at a pub called Fat Sally’s. Great food, and we saw Fat Sally – aptly named. Then just at dusk we went to see the Little Blue Penguins. They are sort of nocturnal. They spend all day from an hour before dawn, out at sea fishing. Then just after dusk they return to their colony on land. The viewing place is a small grand stand and they light the area with a light spectrum the penguins can’t see so they are not afraid to come ashore. Just at dark they start coming ashore in groups of about 5-10 penguins. They climb/waddle up a rocky steep shore up to their grassy colony area. They are really cute – about 15-20 inches tall, and look just like any penguin you would imagine, except their backs are blue. When they get to their grassy colony, they start calling each other with a very strange sound that I can’t really explain, except it sounded like a high pitched snoring. We were not allowed to photograph so nothing but post cards of these little cuties.
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